Best Kept Rules and Secrets

Secret #1: CULL HEAVY
CULL means regardless of bloodlines, strains, cost or origin, you must eliminate all birds from the race team or breeding loft that are giving you bad result and preventing you from improving. Only birds that have shown potential should be kept for future racing or breeding. This means pigeons that are consistently racing or producing birds in the top 10% of your race schedule. Secret number one "Cull Them."
1.Cull birds that are not of superior health
2.Cull breeders that do not produce strong, healthy young.
3.Cull birds that are hard to settle and manage.
4.Cull birds that do not loft fly and train easily.
5.Cull birds that can’t keep up with the rest of the team.
6.Cull pair which you have heavy losses each year or poor homing ability.
7.Cull flyers that have not finished consistently in the top 10% of their races.
8.Cull pair that has not produced good racers even though their young are not lost.
9.Cull birds that cannot handle the tough races, regardless of the distance.
10.Cull birds with poor recovery periods that can’t race over 50% of the race schedule.
As you cull and eliminate birds, you look to keep and breed from the best. Three or four pair of proven stock birds can take a fancier a long way in a race season and many through years to come. Sometimes even with the best intention we make mistake.
Secret #2: QUALITY OVER QUANTITY
Quantity offers only cost and wasted time. Quality is profitable and rewarding. Once you learn the advantage of quality above quantity, put it into practice. Those fanciers who raise and train 100-200 squeakers every year with the hope of getting one or two good pigeons in their lofts take the longest and most costly road to success. A large flying team is never necessary to win or compete successfully. A few good pigeons are better than a large number of inferior ones. Go slow and be patient. Go slow and be patient
1.DO NOT OVER CROWD YOUR LOFT (Racing or Breeding). Keep only a few pigeons, but keep the best you can get
2.Start with 3 to 5 pairs of breeders and build a nucleus from them. Once the proponent sire or dam is actually discovered—usually by accident—or uncovered, then you must at all costs develop a line around this specific bird. You must not dilute him because you will eventually lose the quality that makes him great. You must perpetuate as many offspring in as many combinations as possible
3.Purchase only one superior pair at a reasonably more expensive price. Your second choice should be the offspring off the top birds that have proved themselves both as breeders and racers.
4.Purchase from a reputable and honest, successful fancier who has put years into creating a winning family.
5.Buy on information and results, not emotion and fancy advertisements, names or pedigrees. Do your research and homework before you invest your money and your investment will be rewarding and pay dividends.
6.Ignore elaborate pedigrees where reference is made to great winners in the second, third and fourth generations. Do not worry about strains, famous names, or a certain family of birds at this time.
7.The birds must come from very healthy and successful lofts.

Secret #3: GOOD HEALTH
When selecting quality pigeons, always select "Good Health." There can be no sound foundation without it. Healthy pigeons produce healthy young that will race well. This is an undisputable fact. Good health is 75% of the secret to successful pigeon racing. It start with good health and the fancier's willingness to accept that an excellent diet, hygiene and medication program is necessary to keep the birds healthy and competitive.
1.Birds must have a proper diet (metabolism) to compete at their highest levels. Breeders and race birds should never miss a meal or be kept hungry or thirsty. Keep breeders on a regular schedule for feed time, and feed at least two times a day
2.Clean Drinking water. A true test of a clean drinking water is that even you yourself can drink from it.
3.Bath your bird. Healthy birds will like to take a bath 1 or 2 times a week. Place a bath pan in the loft on a nice sunny day with 2 tablespoons of bleach or a hand full of epsom salts in the water.
4.Bio-security is a Must! Keep visitors out of you lofts. Who knows where they have been and what they will expose your birds to?
5.Clean your loft. Dry & Clean - Bleach loft and water & feed containers regularly. Make your loft as pleasant as possible for you and the birds.
6.Keep Canker and Cocci Under Control. The point is not to eradicate but only to keep at a manageable level that does not adversely affect performance. Remember neither of these drugs are antibiotics.
7.Please do not accept birds no matter how noble their intentions are. Bringing in a lot of birds from various lofts creates a stress situation for the newcomers as well as the familiar settled birds. It also brings out various dormant ailments that may take years to isolate or eradicate. A quarantine of 3-4 weeks period and the administration for the pigeon is highly recommended.
8.Stop Exchanging Birds. Health cannot be achieved if you are constantly exchanging pigeons with all and sundry. Once you have a colony of birds, work with them and avoid the temptation of always bringing in other birds. The constant exchange of birds is a sure-fire way to insure disaster
Secret #4: HOMING & NAVIGATION QUALITIES
Breed from birds that have the "Compass" or "Homing Instinct." If a pigeon can't home, how can you expect it to win? There is still no consensus on how a bird homes and navigates. It is a matter upon which we can only speculate. It is important to recognize that a racing pigeon must and does navigate. The bird must have the ability to orient itself and to maintain its course. The intelligent pigeons apparently have no trouble finding the most direct route home, and they are able to adjust to different types of conditions (weather).
1.Place high value on a bird that has come home time after time after hard races. Intelligent pigeons have no trouble finding home and are able to adjust to different types of conditions.
2.Look for evidence of "Homing Instinct" over a long period of time. You cannot measure this quality by a few races or tosses, and it cannot be found by fliers who constantly hold birds out of races for minor reasons. You cannot evaluate a bird's intelligence in the short, fast races. You must go the distance.
Secret #5: LET THE BASKET & RACES CULL FOR YOU
The only fair and impartial methods of selecting intelligence that gives true satisfaction and results are the training basket and long races. No individual can measure mentality and the degree of homing instinct of a bird from looking at it, feeling or handling it, or looking into its eyes. Don't waste your time or money! You already have the best graders in the world, "The Basket" and "Long Races".
Secret #6: BREED FOR INTERNAL QUALITIES, NOT EXTERNAL APPEARANCE
Outwardly many pigeons seem to look good, but it is what is on the inside that counts on race day: intelligence, orientation and navigating ability, motivation, determination, desire, heart and health. Appearance, fancy pedigrees, and popular names are all equal, until the basket or race day arrives.
Consistently breed generation after generation from pigeons which possess these internal qualities. I intensify and fix these characteristics in my birds so they will reproduce themselves in my youngsters year after year.
Now in each pigeon there are actually two pigeons: the one physically that you see, and the hidden bird that you have no way of seeing, and therefore no way of judging. When you evaluate a bird, you must of necessity evaluate both what you see in front of you and what is in the bird and you cannot see. In horses this is often called heart. If you misjudge this you lose your chance to own the champion.

Secret #7: BELIEVE IN HEREDITY
The laws of genetics apply to all species with amazing consistency. Learn them and use them to your advantage. The pigeon is not an exception. Genetic change occurs in the time frame of generations. This requires that your breeding program be focused for a prolonged period (years!) on a consistent set of goals. Body, attitude, fitness, fuel, and luck collectively contribute to winning a race. All but luck are influenced by both genetics and environment. Genes determine the maximum potential of the bird, while the environment determines how much of that potential is actually realized.
Believe in the simple principle of genetics, "Heredity is handed down from one generation to the next." No one can start with mediocre pigeons and castoffs from several different fanciers, and hope to come up with anything that is close to an established family of pigeons that will pass on the needed quality genes and traits.
1.Select from a family of pigeons that has bred continuous winners over a long period of time, at least 10 years in tough competition. If you are not breeding from winners or children of winners, you are in trouble! This is where it all starts.
2.Pairing the best with the best does not necessarily guarantee success, but it definitely increases the chances of it.
In both the racing and breeding lofts, the true value of a pigeon will be found only by actual tests, either by flying or by the quality of young it produces. The true tests of a quality breeder are the performance and breeding success of its offspring, not its own race record. If a bird cannot reproduce itself or better, it is no good as a breeder and should be culled. Remember results will not be seen in one year. It will take 2 years to see any real evidence.
Secret #8: LOFTS SHOULD BE COMFORTABLE AND SECURE
Pigeons have no sense of luxury, but they do have a sense of comfort and security. Therefore, a luxurious loft is not essential to success, but a loft must provide comfort and security from all outside dangers:
1.Dry & Clean - Bleach loft and water & feed containers regularly.
2.Make your loft as pleasant as possible for you and the birds
3.Adequate Ventilation - Provide plenty of fresh air. Plenty of Natural Sunlight.
4.Vermin Proof .
5.Not Overcrowded - Comfort and sleep is important.
6.Trapping & Clocking - Give it plenty of thought and
Make your loft as pleasant as possible for you and the birds. Spend quality time with your birds, and you will improve your record. Give the birds kind, gentle and regular attention so they will trust you. This should make them contented and unafraid.

SECRET#9 Educate Young Bird Early
As parents, we want the best for our children. We send them to the best schools to have the best teachers. We buy them the best equipment to learn and study to provide our children with the best education we can afford to give them. We want to help them achieve their goals and be successful in life by giving them every opportunity possible to succeed. The same must be done for our young birds in training help them have the best chance to succeed and to win the large prizes.
Feeding Training and medication
From the first day, the fancier must provide the best feed, vitamins, minerals and electrolytes: a regular grain diet of 15-17% protein, plus raw Spanish peanuts, safflower, poultry pellets 21-28% protein, fresh grit each day, Liquid vitamins, minerals and electrolytes in water 2-3 times a week.. This education starts at an early age because we do not want any setbacks in growth, development of muscles, bone structure or feather quality when we wean the young from their parents at 26-30 days old.
1.Before placing young birds (26-30 days old) in the flying section, it should be completely sanitized with loft disinfectant, along with all feeders and water containers at least 2 times, before you place the birds into the section.
2.Keep the section free of all birds until the young birds are ready to move into the sanitized section. You should sanitize the Loft at least once a week until the race series is over.
Weaning Period
1.Removed Young birds 26-30 days old are removed from the breeding section and placed in the flying section with birds of all the same age. Feed and water should be placed in the loft at all times for the first 5 days.
2.Place small grains in the nest bowl during each feeding when young are 14 days old. They learn to eat at an early age.
3.Dip their heads into water at 21 days old once or twice a day to encourage them to drink
FEED: 15-17% protein mixture (several different grains) at least 12-18 different types of seed. Fresh grit. Pigeon pellets 21-28% protein.
WATER: Contains vitamins, minerals and electrolytes with medication of Aureomycin, Sulmet and Ridzol.
1.1 gallon of water with the following:
2.1 teaspoon of vitamins
3.1 teaspoon of minerals / electrolytes
4.1 teaspoon of liquid Sulmet
5.1/2 teaspoon of aureomycin concentrate
6.1/2 teaspoon of Ridzol
If out of area birds are placed in the loft (birds bred at other lofts and shipped to your loft) they must be placed on the above schedule before being introduced to your birds. Give extra special attention to these new birds to see if they are adjusting to their new surroundings and are 100% healthy
Never limit or ration feed for young birds in training! This means that the birds get all they want to eat of quality grain from birth until the last day of a race series. When we wean the young birds at 26-30 days of age, it is another learning experience. There should be feed and water in front of them at all times during this weaning period, about 4-6 days.
On 6th-10th days of weaning give the birds fresh water with 1 tablespoon of bleach or NOLVASAN in 1 gallon of water. Pellets and fresh grit at all times. Birds are feed 2 OR 3 TIMES a day with the same feed mixture, add extra safflower and few RAW SPANISH PEANUTS to each feeding and allow the birds to eat all they want at each feeding. Young birds in training should never miss a meal or be kept hungry or thirsty for any reason. There should be no stress placed on the birds because of food, drink or lodging. They will have enough stress during the race series. We need to provide a stress free environment in the loft at all times.
Safe Trap Training.
1.Show them where to enter or trap safely.
2.Place them through the trap a few times by hand, GENTLY. This gives them the experience to go through the trap. A few peanuts waiting for them after they trap will encourage them to trap quickly. This routine should never change: Always the same - loft fly or exercise, land, trap, peanuts , food and water (plus medication) are now waiting for them.
SETTLING and LOFT FLY: 35-40 DAY OLD BIRDS should be settled to the loft and know the trapping procedures. As birds start flying freely around the loft (2-3 times a day), the following should be applied until road training starts.
WATER
2 days a week with vitamins, minerals, electrolytes and fresh squeezed lemon
2 days a week multi-mixture #2 A OR B medication
1 day a week onion, fresh garlic, apple cider vinegar
2 days a week fresh water with bleach or NOLVASAN
FEED: 2 TIMES A DAY MORNING AND EVENING:
80% mixture various seeds(15-17%)
10% safflower
10% raw Spanish peanuts (#1 grade) fresh grit and pellets free choice
MEDICATION: #2A MULTI-MIXTURE MEDICATION 1 GALLON WATER
1 teaspoon Ridzol
1 teaspoon Sulmet or amprol
1 teaspoon concentrated aureomycin
1 teaspoon TELMINTIC (WORMER)
#2B MULTI-MIXTURE MEDICATION
1 teaspoon emtryl
1 teaspoon tylan
1 teaspoon vetisulid
1 teaspoon aureomycin
One week use mixture #2A, the next week #2B . Prior to road training all birds should be vaccinated for PMV and POX.
Routing in Aviary. After the young birds start to loft fly for about 3-4 weeks, they will become stronger and more curious. They will start to leave the area of the loft and spend time routing (checking out surroundings away from the loft). They sometimes will spend 20-30 minutes flying out of the sight of the trainer and the loft. At this point, the birds show the trainer that they are ready for road training tosses. Road training tosses should not begin until the birds start routing.
Basket Training.
1.Purchase or make two for this purpose. One for cocks and one for hens and the size big enough to accommodate comfortably the number you anticipate to race.
2.Each pigeon entrant should have its own compartment, to avoid any unnecessary injury due to pecking before race basketting.
3.Baskets must be easy to carry when loaded and not too cumbersome to load into your car or vehicle, must be strong, light, clean and secure.
4.Training baskets must have attached to one of the longer side panels a release flap or door, which should be at least 80% of the length of the longer side. This ensures that birds do not creep away in one of the corners at release times.
5.Place pigeon in the basket a few at a time in front of the loft. Let them stay in the basket for about 10-15 minutes and open basket for them to fly to the loft safely. Repeat this experience 3-4 times, a few birds at a time, before we start road training. This will enable the birds to feel safe in the basket and not confused.
Baskets are to be kept clean, painted every season and stored in a cool dry vermin free environment, during the off season. During the training and racing period they should be aerated and supplied with dressing material regularly. Try to avoid dust build up of any nature. Birds tend to stick their heads through the tops of baskets in attempting escape, should baskets have very open tops. This is not acceptable, because they will become wild and susceptible to injury.

Pre Road Training
1.Get a your vicinity map a draw a straight line on your projected pigeon flight path for every mile/miles.
2.The birds are always sent to training tosses with a full tank of gas, fully fed and watered at all times.
3.Look for locations to release your birds, always try to find large land marks that the birds can remember and see at great distances.
ROAD TRAINING/RACE SERIES:
FEED - 3 times a day: Once in morning 2 hours before road training, Once mid-day; Once evening. Feed the birds all they want to eat at each feeding. The birds are always sent to road training with plenty of fuel or gas in their tank. NEVER HUNGRY OR THIRSTY!
70% mixture various grains(15-17%)
15% safflower
15% Spanish peanuts Fresh grit and pellets free choice
WATER:In loft at all times:
2 days vitamins, minerals, electrolytes, lemon
2 days multi-mixture medication #3
1 day onion, garlic, apple cider vinegar
2 days teas, every other week 1 day substitute WORMER for tea.
MEDICATION: #3 MULTI-MIXTURE
1 TABLESPOON Ridzol
1 TABLESPOON Sulmet-aureomycin
1 teaspoon tylan
1 teaspoon vetisulid
1 tablespoon vitamins
Two weeks before the race series starts, put the birds on 5-7 days of 3000-3500 mg AMOXYCILLIN per gallon of water. You can still train the birds while on AMOXYCILLIN with no problem.
One week before the race series starts, until series is over, feed 3 times a day on a regular routine: 60% mixture, 20% safflower, 20% peanuts, grit, pellets. ALL THE BIRDS WANT TO EAT!


WATER:7 DAY PROGRAM AT THE START OF THE SERIES.
DAY OF SHIPPING- vitamins, minerals, electrolytes
DAY BIRDS RETURN (24 HOURS) vitamins, minerals,
electrolytes, lemon.
next 48 hours - multi-mixture #3
next 48 hours - fresh water with bleach or NO LVASAN
next 48 hours or shipping day - vitamins, minerals,
electrolytes.
The week between races, the birds should receive plenty of rest in loft.
1.WARM BATH WITH EPSOM SALTS THE FIRST NICE DAY AFTER RACE.
2.Loft fly once a day. Light training 20-30 miles in the middle of week.
3.Loft fly during the last days before shipping the next race.
4. KEEP THE LOFT QUIET AND LET BIRDS REST FOR NEXT RACE. DO NOT OVER TRAIN THE BIRDS BETWEEN RACES. THE BIRDS NEED TIME TO RECOVER PHYSICALLY AND MENTALLY BETWEEN RACES.
Start of road training.
4.Start about 1/2 mile away from the loft, releasing the birds at this point 2-3 times, the routine is the same training, land, trap and peanuts.
5.Gradually increase the distance of our training tosses to 1, 5, 10, 20 miles. We stay at each location 3 times. It is better to have 2 ten mile tosses than 1 twenty mile toss for the birds to gain experience
6.On the third time at each location we are going to single toss each bird! Single tossing helps to educate the bird, and build its confidence to fly alone. These single tosses force the bird to think on its own and not to rely on other birds to follow home. This is the first step in teaching the bird to be independent, and to build confidence in its own ability to navigate.
7.Release each bird separately, about 10 minutes apart, and it must rely on its own homing skills. These single tosses are only made after a bird has been to the location at least 2 times with the group.
8.Remember, feed and water is always available to the birds, and the routine is the same - train, land, trap, peanuts. If they know that the peanuts are waiting for them, you will have no problem with trapping.
After we reach the 40 mile toss location or the water, whichever comes first, all training tosses are single bird tosses. The birds must learn to fly independently from this point.

Rules for Success
Rule 1: Make your own mistakes! Birdkeeping of any kind is by definition a hands-on activity. Do not be afraid to make errors. It's O.K.! You only really learn by doing. However, you must learn to recognize your errors, learn from them, and do not repeat them.
Rule 2: Read everything, study everything, but do so critically! Learn the anatomy of the racing pigeon. Any good racing pigeon book should be informative or choose the physiology links on this website. Learn the signs of illness for canker, coccidiosis, mycoplasmosis, round and tapeworm infestation, flying pigeon louse, pigeon pox, paramyxovirus, ornithosis, feather mite or lice and red mite, etc. You do not want these detrimental critters near your lofts. They can ruin a loft and the whole breeding and racing season.
Rule 3: Learn and apply knowledge of genetics! The laws of genetics apply to all species with amazing consistency. Learn them and use them to your advantage. The pigeon is not an exception. Genetic change occurs in the time frame of generations. This requires that your breeding program be focused for a prolonged period (years!) on a consistent set of goals. Body, attitude, fitness, fuel, and luck collectively contribute to winning a race. All but luck are influenced by both genetics and environment. Genes determine the maximum potential of the bird, while the environment determines how much of that potential is actually realized.
Rule 4: Stock sense is essential! This gift of recognizing quality in animals is called stock sense. This usually cannot be taught; you usually have an aptitude for it or not. No matter what you breed, the principles are and always remain the same.
Rule 5: Two pigeons in one! Now in each pigeon there are actually two pigeons: the one physically that you see, and the hidden bird that you have no way of seeing, and therefore no way of judging. When you evaluate a bird, you must of necessity evaluate both what you see in front of you and what is in the bird and you cannot see. In horses this is often called heart. If you misjudge this you lose your chance to own the champion.
Rule 6: Nature is not on your side! Nature abhors order. Nature is the great equalizer; Nature does not willingly admit of extremes. Left to herself, Nature reverts to the common form. Nature never progresses from less order to greater order, but always from order to disorder if left to her designs.
What does this mean? This means that once the propotent sire or dam is actually discovered—usually by accident—or uncovered, then you must at all costs develop a line around this specific bird. You must not dilute him because you will eventually lose the quality that makes him great. You must perpetuate as many offspring in as many combinations as possible. Inbreeding is your tool! If your sire or dam doesn't put up with it, then he or she is not the prepotent specimen you believe him or her to be! If this is the case, you must look to uncover another! You can learn much of breeding by studying the theories of Chaos and Relativity!
Rule 7: Truly prepotent sires or dams are the rarest of the rare! They are to be cherished, and unlike diamonds, they will not last forever. Use them wisely! To find one is truly like panning for gold. You go through tons and tons of rock and dirt to find only a grain—a nugget—of real gold. That is why it has value, because it is rare! Yet once found they are never appreciated nor properly used. This is because people ignorantly believe, "Oh, well, I'll find or breed another." Well, good luck because the reality is you rarely will.
Rule 8: Cross inbred lines! Inbreeding increases predictability by narrowing the gene pool. (This also means that it decreases the variability that will be seen in the offspring and can actually set limits on progress that can be made). A true master breeder is never satisfied with such limits and uses both inbreeding and outcrossing to achieve consistent results that steadily improve over the years. If the genes you need are not in the gene pool, no amount of selection will put them there. Inbreeding should only be done with world class animals. Inbreeding decreases the effect of heterosis (or hybrid vigor). This will require that you distinguish between your breeding and racing programs.

What we seek is always to improve! We wish to objectively improve our stock while maintaining longevity. Always look, never be content! Always seek to modify and manipulate Nature's odds in your favor.
When two or more inbred lines of pigeons, or livestock of any kind, are crossed, and we then breed the crossbred females back to either side, we should immediately see very big improvements in everything from fertility to livability.
Rule 9: Introduce only what you absolutely know to be fact! Never use a pigeon in your program, no matter how good or how great a performance, unless you know exactly his genetic origin. You could destroy twenty years work in just a few years. If your family means anything to you, never risk it!

Germinating Grains

Germinating Grains

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Simply stated, germination is a series of processes whereby proteins, fats and starches are broken down into simpler forms which can be utilized by the growing plant.
Among a multitude of other processes, all the vitamins required by the growing plant are synthesized in the correct proportion and starches are broken down into sugars which can now be absorbed by the growing plant and used as a form of energy. Proteins are also broken down into their constituent amino acids which can now be absorbed by the growing plant or the animal eating the germinating seed.
One would expect such a living kernel to be a desirable feed for birds and indeed this is the case. That may also be the reason why young birds engorge themselves with feed that has just been vomited (hence also soaked), a feature of the dreaded "young bird sickness".

Selection of suitable grains:

A suitable grain should
• be palatable to the birds. No matter how beneficial a substance could be for the birds, it will be of little benefit if they don't eat it.
• germinate fast. The faster a grain germinates the less likely will mould grow, all other considerations being equal.
• be free of mold spores.
• be relatively inexpensive.

Grain which germinates as many mold spores as above is not suitable for germinating even though some of them can be inhibited by spraying vinegar onto the milo after it has been soaked. But clean milo could be such a grain. It germinates rapidly at room temperature, is relished by pigeons and relatively inexpensive. One can take a quantity of milo, immerse it in water in a deep bucket and allow the lighter material to float to the top from where it is easily discarded. This lighter material, much of which would get moldy, is not desired. Once the floating material has been discarded, the rest can soak for approximately 10 to 12 hours. Any other material which has come to the surface in the meantime can be discarded by decanting the container. The other heavy kernels are poured into a sieve to drain for about an hour. Once the majority of water has been removed, the milo is put into a covered tray where it can germinate for 1 day.

bon appétit!

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Should clean milo not be available, other seeds will do. Soak the seeds for 12 and germinate for 24 - 36 hours.

Germinated canola seeds
Germinated field peas
Germinated wheat
Germinated barley

This page was last up-dated on October 9, 2003

http://www.albertaclassic.net/GerminatingGrains.php

Cloning Racing Pigeon

Cloning Racing Pigeons
by Alan Wheeldon

Imagine that Federation winner you’ve got. You’ve tried him with every hen in your loft -
nothing, not one single winning pigeon. It’s never bred a pigeon anything like itself.
You’ve even bought in a champion hen of the same strain at great expense........still
nothing.
You think what the hell I’ll put it back on the road. First race.........1st Federation! What
can you do? Imagine that Combine winner you’ve got. He’d always been good but it
was not until he was three years old that he finally won the Combine. But disaster, you
have only bred two hens from him and now he is baron, a victim of some viral infection.
W hat can you do? W ell the answer to both these problems, is at hand.........Cloning!
So what exactly is cloning? Cloning is where an exact genetic duplicate, a twin can be
made of any living thing, including pigeons. It’s already been done with mammals. So
why not pigeons? Well it’s on its way. How is it done? W ell with mammals, an egg is
removed from a female donor. A minute needle is inserted into the wall of the egg and
its genetic material is sucked out.

This leaves just the wall of the egg filled only with cytoplasm. Then a cell is taken from
an animal that is due to be cloned and inserted into the empty egg. A short pulse of
electricity is used to fuse the egg cell with the donor cell, and within a few days an
embryo starts to grow. This is then implanted into a surrogate mother and in a few
months the mother will give birth to the new individual, an identical twin of the donor
animal.
Using this technique a range of animals have been cloned including sheep, cattle,
goats and mice. The technique is still being perfected and no one has, as yet, cloned
any birds. It could be argued that cloning birds should be easier than cloning
mammals. Once the genetic material has been injected into the egg, the egg simply
has to hatch.
It does not have to be implanted into a surrogate female. It could even be hatched in
an incubator. I am surprised that the large studs have not sponsored a research
project at a University to start a pigeon, cloning program. They could then create
thousands of pigeons identical to a major champion just from one small piece of tissue.
One major question that will need to be answered is will members that have cloned
pigeons in their lofts be allowed to race them? The reason that this question needs to
be answered at all, is that, to start with, cloned pigeons obtained from pigeon studs are
likely to be expensive. This means that the richer fancier could buy a whole team of
pigeons, identical in every way to a champion, and race them.
That fancier could, for example, enter 20 ‘Invincible Spirits’ in the NFC race from Pau
and likely take the first 20 positions. You could argue so what’s different? Richer
fanciers already buy direct sons and daughters of these champions and race them. But
we are not talking sons and daughters here. W e are talking about racing identical
replicas of the actual champions. Of course the cloned pigeons would still have to be
trained and prepared properly before the race, but if you start with identical twins of the
actual champions your chances of getting a winner are very much greater.
One problem associated with banning cloned pigeons is how do you identify that they
are cloned. Sure, it would be a little suspicious if a fancier entered 20 pigeons into a
race that were all identical, and were all identical to De Smaragd II, for example, but
proving that they were clones would be difficult. The fancier could simply say that he
has been practicing close inbreeding using a Bullbox system.
W ell these are the types of issues that the pigeon world will have to face in the near
future. The future is, however, nearer than we think. Commercial establishments have
already seen the potential of cloning domestic animals, and people’s pets, such as
cats and dogs, are a prime target. People get very upset when their pet cat or dog dies
and many would love to have them back as a cloned twin.
Companies are springing up, particularly in the United States that will collect cells from
your dead pets to be frozen for future use, when the technology for cloning has been


perfected. One such company, called Lazaron, already provides a kit complete with
instructions on how to collect a tissue sample.
They also provide a chart explaining when and how to collect the tissue and how to
ship it to them. They will then cryopreserve (freeze in liquid nitrogen) the tissue ready
for cloning. People are already queuing up for their services, so that when their pet dies
an identical twin can be created.
So when your champion pigeon dies or if you have just got an old favorite, just contact
one of these new cloning houses and they will keep a tissue sample frozen in storage,
so that one or more identical copies of your best pigeon can be created in the future.
You could then fill your loft with Combine winners, or even sell them, without ever
having to breed any yourself.
In addition, get ready to be surprised at the next pigeon auction you attend that is run
by one of the big studs. Lots 1-66 could all be the same pigeon. Identical copies of Bert
Brasspenning’s Champion De Felle, for example.

Before Breeding

Before Breeding:

Usual cleansing regimen to prevent diseases

1. Deworming with Pidro water soluble to be followed after 3 days by
Vermex. Kung ang gamit mo ay Tape Terminator, mas mainam at kahit di na
gumamit ng Pidro. Hindi ko pa nasubok yung gawa ng MAXXI products pero sabi
ni Dr. Biboy Lazaro e mahusay daw. Kahit nagdeworm ka na, minsan ay meron
pa din lumalabas at mahirap talaga alisin sa kalapati yan. Ulitin mo na
lang kung sakali basta walang sinusubuan o mangingitlog na. Wag ka
magdeworm ng naglulugon din. Wag magbigay ng kahit anong gamot o vitamins
habang nagdedeworm.

2. Preventive dose ng antibiotics. May ibang school of thought na
nagsasabing hindi ito kailangan. Pero kung gusto mong makasiguro na walang
itinatagong sakit ang K, pwede mo itong gawin. Maraming antibiotics ang
pwede mong gamitin. Ang pinakasimple ay Vetracin soluble, Gallimycin
soluble, at Baxidil soluble. Puro hinahalo s a tubig na iinumin yan. Tig-3
days sa bawat antibiotic na yan sa suggested na timpla pang preventive
lang. Ang Baxidil ay may konting action din laban sa coccidiosis! Para sa
Ornithosis complex, gumamit ka ng mga nabibiling pangkalapati na gamot.
Usually nasa sachet yan. Kung gagawin mo lahat ito ay aabutin ka ng at
least 12 days.

3. Magbigay ng para sa Canker. Maaari kang gumamit ng Tricho plus. Sundin mo yung instruction sa likod ng sachet. Kung konti lang ang ibon mo ay mas matipid siguro kung bumili ka na lang ng Metronidazole suspension sa botica. Generic lang ang kunin mo at pinakamura. Halos 50 pesos lang yun. Ibigay mo ng 1ml. per bird for 4 days. Take note ha! Suspension at hindi tablet. Di ko nirerekomenda ang tablet dahil masyadong mataas ang concentration kahit hatiin mo pa. Wag na wag kang magbibigay ng gamot sa
canker kapag naglulugon ang ibon mo! Nakakasira ng feather yan. Kapag sumobra ka sa dose ay nagkakaron din ng fer tility problems.

4. Final cleansing with pigeon tea. Maski anong herbal tea ay pwede mong gamitin. Garlic tea, anise tea, green tea, sambong tea, ginseng tea etc. Sa
bandang huli na lang yung ginseng tea para paghahanda sa pairing. 4-5 days
lang siguro ay pwede na dahil baka maglugon ang K kapag matagal ang
cleansing tea mo.

5. Matapos mong gawin ang lahat sa itaas ay pahinga muna ang K sa mga gamot
at plain water lang ang inumin nila. Maliban sa daily vitamins na ibibigay
mo kasama ang calcium supplements tulad ng tablets o Pecutrin at mineral
blocks tulad ng pick pot o Ideal block. Mga 1 week ang duration nito o
hanggang sa gumanda ang droppings nila. Yung namumuo and dumi at namumulbos
ang katawan.

6. Importante na wag kang magbago ng mix ng feeds at baka mawala sa
condition ang K. Sa breeders ay breeder mix lang unless sobrang taba na ng
mga breeder. Dapat mong iwasan na tumaba sila ng husto lalo ang mga hen!
Baka magsapola. Kapag&nb sp;sobra ang taba ay pwede mong bawasan na lang ang
ration nila o kaya maghalo ng pellets o crumble sa mix. Kapag light mix o
depurative na may barley ay baka biglang maglugon. Pero ito lang ang paraan
kung ayaw pumayat yung K kung sapola na ang problema. Naghahalo din ako ng
cod liver oil at vitamin E sa mix before feeding. Binabasa ko ito (wag lang
sobrang basa) ng cod liver oil at vit. E at minsan ay may garlic oil pa.
Maaari ding samahan ng Brewer's yeast powder ang binasang breeder mix.
Pwede ring binder sa patuka ng brewer's yeast ang calamansi extract!

7. Mga 3 araw bago ka mag-pairing, magbigay ka ng Ideal pills. Samahan mo rin ng konting sneaky mix ang ration ng patuka nila. Nakatutulong ito para maging "ardent" sila sa isat-isa.

8. Pairing na! Siguraduhing walang istorbo sa mga pinagpapares mo. Bigyan
sila ng magandang nestbowl at nesting material tulad ng pinong buhangin.
Mga 5 days after pairing, maglagay ng konting twigs malapi t sa pugad.
Nakakastimulate ito para mangitlog kaagad. Ten days ang tamang palugit para mangitlog. Kapag lumagpas ay indicator ito na may problema. During pairing
ay ituloy mo lang ang vitamins at calcium supplement para matiyak na maayos
ang shell ng itlog. V-22 at United Calcium lactate ay ok na! Hindi ko gusto
yung tig-20 pesos.

9. Feeding hatchlings. Sa unang 5 araw ay kailangang haluan ng crumble o
pellets ang breeder mix. Nakatutulong ito sa pagsubo ng maliit na bibig ng
sisiw. Kung puro malaki ang butil ng patuka mo ay mahihirapan ang magulang
at pipiliin lamang yung maliliit na buto. Minsan ay sinasamahan ko pa ng
corn grits sa unang 5 araw. Habang lumalaki ay maaari kang magdagdag ng
peas for protein. may maganda akong breeder mix pero kailangan ay at least
25 kilos yung mix para matimpla. Sabihin mo lang kung interesado ka. BTW,
ang magandang crumble ay yung Purina! Kung buo ang crumble ay mas maganda
ang Purina 1 00 at 200 kesa sa 300 dahil sa taas ng protina. Kaso kadalasan
ay durog ang 100 at 200. Pwede mo din try yung pang breeder na manok na
pellets (mahal nga lang). Medyo nakakapagtae yung pigeon pellets ng
Sarimanok kung sa nagsusubo mo ibibigay. Siguraduhin mong laging may
pagkain ang nagsusubo para maganda ang size ng inak ay at hindi mahulog ang
katawan ng breeder. Dito nakakatulong ang crumble din. Tiyakin na may grits
din palagi! Pag 12 days na ay pwede ka ng maglagay ng isa pang nestbowl
para sa 2nd round nya. Bago iwalay ang inakay ay bigyan mo muna ng Ideal
pills at vitamins/calcium. Sundan mo na rin ng Brewer's yeast tablet.

10. After breeding ay bigyan mo ng sapat na panahon para makarecover ang
mga breeders at pwede mong ulitin ang cleansing regimen bago sila maglugon.
Another chapter na ito bro, pagod na kamay ko at may trabaho pa.

11. BTW, pwede ka pa rin magpaligo ng K during breeding ha. Nakalimutan
kong isama rin ito sa preparation! Kapag nakabreed na ay maglagay ka na
lang ng palangganang may tubig at konting asin o bath salt. Sa preparation
gumamit ka ng Wash Out para maalis ang external parasites. Forced bath bale
yan.

BASKETING, RACE DAY AND RACE RECOVERY PROTOCOL

By Dr. Colin Walker
'The Flying Vet'
BASKETING DAY
As the day of basketing approaches, it becomes increasingly important that everything is done correctly. An error now means that there is little time to correct it or for the pigeons to forget. The fancier should walk into his basketing centre with healthy, fit, motivated pigeons that are calm in them and ready for the task at hand. The fancier's efforts during the week culminate on the day of basketing. The result on race day is a direct quantitative assessment of these efforts.
What to drink
Of prime importance is that the birds drink well during the day. Often, clean, plain water is the best. Some medications are bitter and these are best avoided. Anything added to the water should be familiar to the birds and very palatable. Benefit can be obtained in some birds by giving probiotics or multivitamins. Do be careful, however, as sugar-based or electrolyte preparations put in the water too concentrated can actually dehydrate the birds.
What to feed
Carbohydrates and fats are the energy sources during flight. This does not, however, mean that the birds should be gorged with these types of seed. This only leads to the accumulation of body fat, which is a hindrance. The diet should be based on these grains but should be fed at a level matching the birds' exercise to allow them to become full and buoyant but not heavy in the hand. A grain mix based on corn, safflower, milo, wheat and rice is good. It makes no sense to feed more than approximately 25% legumes (peas and beans) now. Any grits, pick stones or other supplements that contain excessive (more than 2%) salt should be removed 1 - 2 days before basketing but returned to the loft before the birds return.
When to exercise
Some fliers prefer to keep the birds in the loft on basketing day. This prevents the risk of the birds over flying due to their race readiness or a loft scare. The last thing anyone wants is for the birds to fly their race around the loft on basketing day. Keeping them in also allows for controlled feeding. With the birds in the loft, there is no chance of the first birds through the trap eating substantially more than the last ones in or getting more of an opportunity to selectively eat more of the tastier grains, e.g. safflower. If kept in the loft, the birds also cannot get wet if it does happen to rain. It is nice to send birds covered in bloom and definitely bad to send birds that are damp.
The decision to keep the birds in or not is more important for sprint racing. The advantage of letting them out is that the birds stay in their loft routine. All pigeons, particularly youngsters, get a feeling of security from a daily routine that is predictable for them. A day that is relatively normal puts them more at ease. If accustomed to a fly and not let out, the birds can often be extremely restless in the loft. If flown normally, they are more likely to drink normally and rest properly in the loft as basketing approaches. A moderate fly also allows them to stretch and tone their muscles.
The act of basketing itself should proceed routinely and calmly. Remember to be kind and quiet with the birds and to conceal any excitement you may be feeling. Any motivation techniques used can be negated by a rough basketing, which in turn can result in a bad trap on race day.
RACE DAY
what happens as the birds arrive from a race very much affects subsequent race results. It is easy to be distracted by the excitement of the moment, with people phoning to compare clocking times, etc., but it is important to remember what is happening from the pigeon's point of view. When a bird returns from a race, it must be given the opportunity to recover physically and also be rewarded for its effort.
Physical recovery
When a bird returns, it is hungry and thirsty, its body energy and electrolyte reserves have been depleted, and it is tired. Poorly managed, this means prolonged recovery, decreased opportunity to race the bird and decreased motivation on subsequent races. Correct management means the race can be a positive experience, adding to the bird's fitness capability and also its keenness in subsequent races. For physical recovery to occur, the bird must be provided with several basics: food, water and electrolytes and rest.
Food
Obviously food must be available to the returning birds, and all the better if it is the right type. The aim here is to quickly restore blood sugar levels and start to replace organ glycogen reserves. Basically, the birds initially need a mix that is high in energy and calories and low in protein, a mix that is often described as a 'light' mix. The mix needs to contain carbohydrate- and oil-based grains that are readily digestible such as milo, safflower, wheat, rice and corn. In addition, there is advantage if small seeds with similar composition, such as white millet, canary, canola, hulled oats and linseed, are used. These have a larger surface area compared to their volume on which digestive enzymes can act and so their nutrients are released more quickly to the birds. There is also advantage in adding to the seed a small amount of blended conditioning oils, such as Polyseed Oil (e.g. � - 1 ml/kg). However, several hours after return or the next day after the birds have rested, depending on the type of race, a more substantial mix with peas and beans should be offered. These are protein-based grains. Proteins are the building blocks for healing and tissue repair.
For distance racing, the practice of feeding a high-carbohydrate mix, often called a 'depurative' mix, for several days after the race should be discouraged. A man working hard all day does not want to sit down to a piece of cake but is looking for a steak and pigeons are no different. Essentially, we need a quick replacement of lost calories and energy, followed by access to foods that will rebuild the body's energy reserves.
Water and electrolytes
during exertion, both water and electrolytes are lost from the bird's system. These need to be correctly replaced to restore the bird's sense of well-being and to speed recovery. With short or easy races, plain water and access to grit and a pink mineral (e.g. PVM Powder) will be sufficient. However, with extreme exertion, significant levels of electrolytes will be lost. If the birds are allowed to drink plain water upon return, this further dilutes those remaining electrolytes, leading to a condition called 'water intoxication' and results in a prolonged recovery. Recovery is therefore speeded by the use of electrolytes in the water. At my clinic, I recommend an electrolyte preparation (Electrolyte P180) be placed in the water on long races and in particular on hot days when the birds arrive at the loft distressed. Alternatively, products such as Probactrin can be used. Probactrin contains electrolytes, multivitamins, avian probiotics and simple sugars. These simple sugars do not need to be digested and in pigeons are passively absorbed through the bowel wall. This means a quick replacement of lost energy. Probiotics (beneficial bacteria from the bowel) are necessary for digestion and absorption of nutrients. These organisms are essential for health but yet are the first to be lost with any stress. Quick replacement enables bowel function to return more quickly, meaning the droppings in the postrace bird return to normal more quickly and that feather down drop resumes. Probactrin replenishes body fluids, provides energy and nutrition, helping to re-establish blood sugar levels and replace depleted glycogen reserves, and floods the bowel with beneficial bacteria, replacing those lost during the race. On the Continent, where widowers are often sent to a 200-mile race each weekend, the use of such medications has particular advantages. Quick recovery means a quick return to race form.
Rest
All fanciers are keen to check on their birds as they return and in particular to check that all of their fancied birds are back. But it is important that the birds are given a chance to rest and sleep. Try and avoid unnecessary disruption.
Psychological recovery
It is important to remember the three cardinal requirements of a pigeon to win: it must be fit and healthy, have genetic quality, and be motivated. If the bird is fit, healthy and of quality, then it is relatively straightforward to get it to home what makes it a winner is its keenness to return. This is why, on the Continent, where fanciers provide each other with the world's toughest competition, that so much effort is put into motivation systems such as widowhood.
Too often, this aspect is overlooked by fanciers. In Australia, because the vast majority of birds only compete in their first year of life, the season can be viewed as simply an extended European Young Bird program, with many fliers relying on food and love of the perch to draw their birds home quickly. The Australian practice of separating the sexes as puberty approaches before or during a season would appear alien and bizarre to most Continental fliers.
Behaviorists tell us that when an animal is doing something for a reward, the benefit of the reward is halved if it occurs more than 5 seconds after the event. It is therefore important that the returning bird has access to its own perch, box, section, hen, eggs, etc. One can imagine the negative effect on a bird when it arrives late to a closed trap or return and have to wait in a trapping section to be counted, etc. Obviously, other factors like loft security from cats, etc. must be considered here but the fancier must keep in his mind what is going through his bird's mind as it returns from a race. The pigeon must feel welcomed back into the loft, anticipating during the journey a reward, be it simply food and a secure perch for a young bird, eggs for a naturally raced bird, or the hen of a widower.
Interpreting the results of race day
obviously, a good indicator of how the team and loft are fairing is the position in the race. This can, however, be deceptive in places where organizations have a clocking limit. One competitive bird can make a bad team look good. What one should be looking for, in addition to the time of arrival of the first bird is a good percentage of the team arriving in competitive time. Essentially, what we want is for large numbers of birds to come at the loft quickly and for them to look neither mentally or physically distressed. Look for the following four indications of health and fitness.
1.How quickly droppings return to normal - As fliers would be aware, pigeon droppings are made up of three basic components: digested food from the bowel (browny green), solid urine (white) and liquid urine (clear liquid). Bile in pigeons is green and is produced by the liver. Bile digests grain, releasing its nutrients. When birds are away, their food intake is reduced or absent. However, urine production in a well-hydrated bird is constant. The droppings of a healthy bird on arrival are therefore made up of just urine and appear as a creamy patch of liquid. In races that birds find particularly taxing, either because of their difficulty or the non-preparedness of the birds, bile is produced because of the bird's hunger and exertion. And so, in these birds, the droppings on return contain urine and bile, appearing as a creamy liquid tinged to a variable extent with fluorescent green. Once the birds are back and eating normally, digested food will appear in the droppings and the droppings will start to look the way they did when the birds were sent. In healthy fit birds, this occurs within a couple of hours. Supplementing with normal digestive bacteria (probiotics) and electrolytes hastens this process. It is important that any supplements used are sweet tasting and readily taken by the birds. Returning race birds must drink readily so that any dehydration is quickly reversed. Birds that drink well upon return will produce a good amount of urine, making the first couple of droppings passed very watery. Fanciers should look for these to ensure that the birds have drunk enough.
2.How quickly birds recover after returning, with food and rest - Within 1 hour on a short race.
3.Crop emptying - Birds that recover well will have an empty crop the next morning. Electrolyte imbalance and slow recovery interfere with crop muscle function, leading to delayed crop emptying.
4.Comparing results and returns with other fliers.
Some fliers look to whether the birds go to the food or the water first, as an indicator of how taxing the birds have found the race. With exertion and heat, moisture is lost from the surface of the air sacs. With air sac inflammation, this loss can be excessive, leading to birds being more inclined to drink first upon arrival. Healthy birds, however, will drink initially on a hot day, if suffering from transporter dehydration, or simply if the race has been long. Eating first does, however, indicate that the race has not been overly draining and that the bird has been exercising well within its fitness capability.
POSTRACE RECOVERY
The day after the race is essentially a day of rest and recovery. Just how quickly the birds recover depends on the length and difficulty of the race and the condition that the birds were in when sent. Birds from low velocity, 'long hours on the wing'-type races are obviously going to take longer to recover than birds from sprints, i.e. races of less than 3 hours duration, and the basic post race management has to vary accordingly. Similarly, birds that are sent healthy and fit recover quicker than those that are healthy but unfit. Fit, healthy birds arrive at the loft and look as if they could keep going. They do not eat or drink excessively. They go to their perch where they may look tired for a short time before appearing normal and relaxed. Healthy but unfit birds are more tired, more distressed and are sometimes disoriented upon arrival, which sometimes results in abnormal behaviors, such as sitting on the loft roof or sitting on the landing board for an extended time. These birds often simply want to drink and sleep on arrival; however, 1/2 - 2 hours later they will eat food and often grit. Crop emptying time and the droppings take longer to return to normal. Birds that are sent with a health problem and are therefore unfit, not only need a prolonged recovery but also veterinary intervention. These birds arrive distressed, will often just sit on the loft floor and are not interested in food or water initially. Sick birds still look tired and have green watery droppings 24 hours after the race.
What to drink
Probiotics, electrolytes and multivitamins can be continued for 24 hours depending on the speed of the bird's recovery. If the birds still look tired from the race the following day, there are significant race stragglers or the birds that did not go to the race are tossed, preventative, health medication is best left until Monday. It is best to initially focus on the race birds recovery as prolonged race recovery can, in itself, create a vulnerability to disease.
What to feed
Continue with the light mix for 24 hours after arrival unless birds look completely normal. After this, reintroduce legumes at normal levels for a team in training (i.e. 30 - 40%). Ensure that grit and pink minerals, e.g. PVM Powder, are available.
When to exercise
It is best if birds are given the opportunity to fly the day after the race. They should be let out but not forced to fly. This gives them an opportunity to stretch their wings and to relieve any muscle stiffness. A bath is also a good idea and some fliers like to warm this.

Aviary Plans

"This was one of the first flights I built. The following plans are for a flight very similar to this one. There are a few differences correcting some mistakes and making the flight safer to you and the birds."

"The biggest difference is in the door or doors. The flight above had a large door on the end I could stand and walk through and a small door to feed through. This allowed for birds to fly past me when entering which could result in their loss. I always recommend the addition and use of a Man-Trap on all outdoor flights. This way birds cannot be lost! In attempting escape, birds tend fly upward. If a Man-Trap is not possible, then it is very important to keep the doors small and as low as possible."

This project is the making of a single open flight suitable for the outdoors. The unit measures about 4'wide x 6'deep x 8'tall and is suitible for a single breeding pair each of two to three different species of doves and/or quail or up to ten birds of the same species.

"In mine, I tend to keep one pair of Button Quail (and allow then to incubate their own), one pair of Diamond doves and one pair of Zebra doves. They all do well and raise youg well through the breeding season."

"During the winter, I cover three sides in heavy plastic (See Photos 1, 2) and keep four pair of Ringnecks, one pair of Bar-shouldered doves and one pair of Mexican Speckled Quail."

This is an open flight with an enclosed top roof section. It can be modified by enclosing one or more of the walls, entirely or partially. The closed roof section allows for protection of roosting birds. Be sure to install wide, flat perches and any nest bowls or platforms up in this section.



Side view showing man-trap on the front, main supports and wire flooring below ground level.



Front view of flight showing main supports and wire flooring below ground level. The drawing on left shows without a man-trap, but with a small low door to reduce escapes. The drawing on the right shows the same flight with the Man-Trap on the front.




First select the site for the flight. Locate and face the door away from where the worst weather comes from in your area. Situate to allow for direct sunlight into the flight (This is important for doves).
Level the site best as possible. If difficult, always start at the high corner and work around from there.
Locate and dig the four holes for the 4"x4" corner posts, dig at least 2' down. Also locate and dig two holes for the 2"x4" posts on the Man-Trap if you are building this as well.
Set the four 4"x4"s in the holes, be sure at least 6' is above ground level. Tie the bottoms together using the 1"x10"s, being sure the end boards extend past the 4"x4"s about 3/4" on each end. The side boards will butt up against these overlaps. Remember to start at the high corner and use a level. Check for square by taking diagonal measurements.
From the high corner, measure up from ground level 6'. Working from this point and with the level, tie in the tops of the 4"x4"s with the 2"x4"s positioned on edge. Trim off any excess from the 4"x4"s above the height of the 2"x4"s. Check for square again and adjust.
Fill in the holes around the four posts. For added security, a quick concrete mix can be added to each hole before filling.
For rodent and preditor protection, prepare for the wire flooring. This can be done in two ways. 1) Dig about 2' down all around the inside of the flight and install a continuous section of wire vertically all around the parimeter, stapling the wire to the inside of the flight base. 2) Dig down about 6" or so from the entire flight bottom. Save the dirt off to the side. Cut wire sections to fill the entire flight bottom comming up and overlapping the insides of the 1"x10"s. Attach the sections of wire with J-clips or thread them together with galvanized or stainless wire and staple the entire unit inside the flight. Backfill the flight with the dirt removed or any other surface material you wish to use.
"I prefer the second method on this size flight. If putting a number of these flights side by side, I would use the first method."
Tie the center of the two upper 2"x4"s together with a 2"x4" cross member on edge.

The Roof
Calculate and cut the angles for your ten rafter pieces from 2"x4"s. (If you are using heavy plywood for the roof, 3/4" or more, three rafters may be sufficient.) With help, put up the 2"x6" ridge beam and the rafters at both ends of the flight. Attach the center rafters as well. Fill in with the others if using them. Cut and install roofing plywood or other roofing material you have selected. If plywood, cover with tar paper, install drip edges and apply shingles. Be sure no screws or nails come through the plywood or roofing material and can harm the birds.

Measure, cut and install the two triangular end caps to finish enclosing the roof section.
Cut the wire sections for the two sides and the back of the flight. Combine sections with J-clips or by threading with stainless wire. Install the wire sections to the flight. This can be done from the inside or outside of the flight depending on how you wish the finished project to look. Just be sure there are no sharp wires for the birds to injure themselves.
"I chose to install the wire from the inside and then cover the edges with thin strips of finishing wood."
Without a Man-Trap
(I do not recommend this method!)
If a Man-Trap is not to be used, it is important to keep the door as small and low as possible. I would install horizontal and verticle 2"x4"s to make an opening for a door about 2'wide x 4'tall. Build the door and install so it swings outward. I would also consider an even smaller door to feed and water through to even further reduce chances of birds escaping.
With a Man-Trap
(It is Always best to use a Man-Trap)
If building a 3'x3'x6' Man-Trap, cut and attach two verticle 2"x4"s to the open end of the flight, 3'apart. Place a long 2"x4" into each of the holes dug 3' apart and 3' from the flight. Be sure they extend at least 6' above ground level. Tie the four verticles together above and below with 2"x4"s checking for level and square. The finished frame should be a 3'x3' square 6'tall. Trim any excess 2"x4" from the two outer verticles. Backfill the holes firmly with dirt.
Select the end or side of the Man-Trap for your door, build the Man-Trap door and hang so it swings outward. Be sure to use cross or angle members for a stronger door frame. Also be sure there is a latch or hook to lock the Man-Trap from the inside once you are in it.
"You do not want someone opening it from the outside while it is doing its job and holding a valuable bird."
Cover the Man-Trap (walls & top) and door with wire.
Even with the Man-Trap, I still recommend that the door to the flight be low as possible and small. Determine the doors size and install a horizontal and verticle 2"x4"s to make the desired opening. Make the flight door. If there is enough room to open it into the Man-Trap with you inside the Trap, hang it to swing so. If not, it must swing into the flight.
"Remember you will probably have feed buckest, water or a shipping box of birds with you when in the Trap. Design its size to accomodate this."
Cover the door end of the flight and door with wire using the same methods as the rest of the flight.

To make your flight last the longest, paint or preserve any wood surfaces. This is often easier before the wire is installed, so plan accordingly! Be sure any products used are non-toxic for birds and allow pleanty of time to dry.

Tools List
At least an 8' flat surface, Saw Horses, Circular Saw, Extension Cord, Electric Drill with Bits and Screw Bits, Hammer, Screw Drivers, Tape Measure, Pencils, Wire Nippers, J-clips Pliers, Straight Edge or T-Square and Level.
Materials List
This list will vary depending on variations you have selected.
Plywood: Two sheets for roofing, One sheet for triangular end caps of roof section.
4"x4"s: (Pressure Treated) Four at 8' long.
2"x6": One at 8' long.
2"x4"s: Five at 6' long. (add Two if extra Roof Rafters are to be installed), Seven at 4' long.
[If the Man-Trap is to be built: Add Two (Pressure Treated) at 8' long and Seven (To Include Two Pressure Treated) at 6' long.]
1"x10"s: (Pressure Treated) Four at 6' long.
Wire: Welded Wire at 1/4"x1/4", enough to cover the following:
One section at 6'x8' (wire bottom), or a 2-1/2'x20' (wire ground barrier).
Two walls at 6'x6' and Two walls at 6'x4'
[If the Man-Trap is to be built: Add for Three walls at 6'x3' and One top at 4'x4'.]
Roofing Materials: To cover a section about 6'x8'.
Other Materials:
Nails, Screws and Heavy Staples, Wood Glue, J-clips or Stainless Wire, Hindges for Two or Three doors, Locks or Latches for Three doors plus an extra Latch for inside the Man-Trap.
Flat Perches from 1"x2"s, Nests and/or Nesting Platforms.
Quick Concrete Mix, Alternative Flight Substrate.

Small Starter Loft
I have often wondered how inexpensively I could build a good functional flying loft. Something every one could afford. Or a loft a club could build quickly and loan to new members. Or even build and sell as fund raisers. This small loft can be built for less than $500, can be moved by 4 men, and will fit in the back of a full sized pick up. It can be set up with perches for Young Birds, or up to 16 nest boxes for racing or breeding pairs. Any one person with basic carpentry skills can build it in a weekend. Or a club could hold a club "Loft Raising" like we did and build one in a day.

The Loft measures 4 by 8 feet with a 3 foot Aviary. It is constructed from 7/16s OSB board attached to the floor joists with out any inside framing. I seal the OSB joints from the outside with 1 by 4 utility fir. This also acts as trim. I install all four sides then cut out the door and windows. The front roofing is standard 2 foot wide metal ordered 48 inches long. The rear roofing is ordered 42 inches long. The front roof extends above the rear roof to act as a fence to prevent the birds from sitting on the roof.

This picture shows how the Aviary front hinges down when flying the birds. Everything in this loft is made from either 7/16s OSB board or 1x4 utility fir. With the exception of the floor joists and roof rafters which are 2x4s and the flooring which is 3/4 OSB. The aviary floor is framed from 1x4s and the aviary front is made from 1x4s ripped in half. Two of these 1x2s are screwed together with the half inch square mesh in between to make the hinged aviary front. I use 1x1 welded steel wire for the aviary floor.

My trapping is very simple. Just a hole with a hinged door. This can be locked open, closed, or set open about 4 inches for trapping race birds.

This view shows the inside of the roof. Note no conventional "Rafters", but just 2x4s run length ways that the roofing is attached to. Also note the 4 inch gap at the roof peak. This is my vent for air to go out. This vent is covered with the half by half screen to keep "Tweet Birds" out. The front roof extension extends up enough to keep rain out.
For window material I just use half by half screen, or you could use clear vinyl and install vents at the floor level.
This basic loft design can also be built in sections and joined together as was my new 16 foot Widowhood loft.
Bill of Materials
6-concrete corner blocks
11--8' 2x4s
1 sheet 3/4 T&G OSB
7 sheets 7/16 OSB
25--8' 1x4 utility
1--lb 2" sheet rock screws
5--lbs 1 1/4" sheet rock screws
5--pair assorted hinges
1--metal door handle
1--screen door lock set
4--26" metal roofing 48" long
4--26" metal roofing 42" long
2--10' metal corner trim roofing pieces
1--3x4 foot 1x1 welded wire
25 feet 1/2 by 1/2 welded screen
window material
paint

Step One
Lay out where your new loft will go using four pillar blocks or four concrete blocks. You can stack additional blocks on after to raise loft height above the ground but for now just start with four. Measure from opposite corner to opposite corner to get your blocks square. The blocks are square when the two distances are the same. Now using a 4 foot level and an 8 foot straight edge level all four blocks. Once your base blocks are square and level you can add additional blocks if wanted to raise the loft height above the ground.
Build your floor joists using 2X4s on 24" centers, using 16 penny framing nails or 4" sheet rock screws. Make your floor a full 8 foot long but only 46" wide, other wise the finished loft will exceed 48" and might not fit into the back of a pick up. Attach your floor, once again 46" by 96". I use 3/4 OSB tong and groove sub flooring but 3/4 plywood can also be used. Use 2" sheet rock screws every 6" or you can use flooring nails but just make sure they are sunk below the flooring so your scraper will not catch on them.

IMPORTANT
Use the Concrete pier blocks with the metal anchors so you can bolt the loft to the concrete blocks.
Also, I would recommend using 6 blocks instead of 4.
There has been two lofts that I know of blown over in hurricanes or tornados.
Step Two
As per the drawing below lay two sheets of 7/16th OSB on the ground and lay out the ends of the loft for cutting. The two triangle pieces from the top of the sides can be discarded as they are scrap. You need to cut two end pieces and two aviary side pieces. The two aviary side pieces can be cut from one sheet of OSB so you will need a total of three pieces of 7/16th OSB for this step. Next take two more pieces of 7/16th OSB and cut them 82" long. leave them a full 48" wide. These two pieces will be for the back of the loft. You are going to need one more additional piece of 7/16th OSB for the front of the loft for a total of 6 sheets of 7/16th OSB.


Now is a good time to cut you door out. Decide which end you want your door and cut it out as below. Do not cut it completely out as you still need it attached to add strength to the end when you attach it to the floor. Once this end is attached to the floor and back you can install your hinges and finish cutting out the door.

Step Three
OK, here's where the fun begins. Following the drawing below attach all four sides and ends to the loft floor using 2" sheet rock screws or flooring nails. Be very careful to ensure your sides and ends go on square, level, or what ever you want to call it. A second person comes in handy here.

Lay the front, ends, and back pieces on the ground as shown.

I like to start with the two back pieces first, then the two ends, and then the front. The best thing to do is to hold off on the front for a while until you finish off the back corners and cut your door. Also, DO NOT screw or nail the bottom of the door permanently. You can put a few screws in to help hold the end but these screws will need to come out later.

This drawing shows how to attach the ends and sides to the floor joist's. Make sure the pieces are square and level and even with the bottom of the floor joists. Use 2" sheet rock screws or flooring nails about every 6".
Step Four
In this step we will screw the two back pieces of OSB together, attach the two back corners, and add some trim. I use 1X4 fir utility I get for a dollar each. But you can use any kind of 1X4 material. Before you start this step go out and buy 5 lbs of 1-1/4" x 6 sheet rock screws as we will be using them for almost every thing to come. Be careful when screwing in the screws, if you go to deep with them they will penetrate the back side of the boards. Look at the left drawing below. Clamp a 1X4 (A) along the top edge (but down about 1/4 inch from the edge) of the two back pieces of OSB and from the inside of the loft screw the OSB to the 1X4. I use 6" spacing for these screws. Next from the outside of the loft screw one of the 78" 1X4s (B) up the center of the back wall dividing the two pieces of OSB evenly. Just attach this using only a couple of screws. Now go inside and screw the two edges of the OSB to the 1X4 using one row of screws in each piece on 6" spacing. We will come back to the back pieces later. Now look at the right drawing and lets work on the ends.





Cut a 1X4 (D) to fit along the top edge from the peak back. Clamp and screw the OSB to it from the inside. Do the same to the other end. Now cut a 1X4 (E) and attach it once again with screws from the inside along the back edge, making sure the edge of the 1X4 is even with the edge of the OSB. Do the same to the other corner. If you looked at the corner from the top it should now look like this.

Now your going to attach the two last pieces if 1X4 trim (C) to the two back corners like this.

Use your screws from the inside and some 2" finishing nails from the out side going through piece C into piece E. Do the same to the other side. You now have your two back corners done. They should be nice and solid and hopefully straight.
Step Five
Well by now we're all proficient carpenters, Right? The next steps will become a little more tricky. I hope I can explain them well enough to follow.
OK, go ahead and attach the front piece of 7/16th OSB to the floor, just like you did the back and ends. Now get your self a couple of 2X2s, or rip a 2X4 in half. You are going to use them to connect the front to the two ends FROM THE INSIDE! This is different. Cut both of them 74" long. Stand one up in the inside of one corner and screw the end to the front into the 2X2 FROM THE OUTSIDE. Like this.

Go ahead and screw the end OSB all the up to the 2X2 making sure to keep it straight.
Now, take an 8 foot 2X4 and rip a 45 degree edge off of it, like this, the full length of the 2x4.

Now attach the 2X4 from top front corner to top front corner with the flat side of the 2X4 facing out, use some longer screws, I use 3" sheet rock screws, three in each end. Like this.




OK, now you have all four sides firmly attached to each other. Go ahead and install four hinges to the door and then finish cutting it out. Remove the temporary screws from the bottom and your door should now be working. Cut three pieces of 1X4 to attach around the out side of the door for trim. Start with the hinge side piece first. But this piece tight against and over the hinges. Screw all the pieces of 1X4 trim to the OSB once again from the inside. Allow the top 1X4 and the 1X4 opposite the hinge side to extend 1/2" beyond the door. This makes for a door stop and covers the saw cut when the door is finished. Like this.


Step Six
Now we're going to finish the front. Take a new sheet of 7/16th OSB and rip a 6" slice off it, do this again, so you have two pieces 6 X 96 inches. From the outside, screw one of the pieces on to the front at the top along the roof line. Screw the OSB into the 2X4 once again about every 6".
Now measure the distance between the front full sheet at the bottom to the 6" strip you just installed at the top. This should be about 28". Cut three pieces of OSB 6X28 inches, or what your measurement was. Attach one to the left side of the loft by screwing into the 2X2, and one to the right side. You now have a big picture window, like this.

Now take a 1X4 and cut it 81" long. Mark the center of your loft on the outside top and bottom and install this 1X4 centered on the outside running up and down. This piece is 1 inch shorter than the front to allow room for roofing so when you install it place it even with the bottom of the loft. Now take your third piece of 6X28" OSB and install it centered on the inside of the 1X4 you just installed. Your big picture window just became two windows. Like this.

For Window material you can use screen like 1/2 by 1/2 which we will be using for the Aviary. Or I like soft heavy duty vinyl, like what is used for storm windows. This flexible material will not hurt your birds if they fly into it like glass would. Or for a widowhood loft you can use translucent roofing that allows light to come in but the birds can't see out. If you use a solid material you will need to cut vents in the front of your loft. If you want to cut vents just measure and draw on the outside where you want them and cut them out. I make mine 6 by 40 inches about 4" above the floor, like this.

Cover your vents with 1/2 by 1/2 screen. This will keep mice out. OK, here's a neat trick. Cut a couple of pieces of 7/16th OSB some what bigger than your vents. In my case that would be 10 by 44 inches. Attach these vent doors with hinges from the top so you can open or close them as much as you want. I use a rope from the vent door up to the front of the aviary to open and close these doors. Now for a Young Bird loft you can pinch the doors down when you darken the loft if your raising your YBs on the darkening system. For a widowhood loft maintaining a stable temperature is important so you can open the vent doors durning the day and close them at night. How bout that? Pretty neat! uh? Don't worry bout me, I'm just getting tired.
Step Seven
OK, before it rains, let's put a roof on. If you haven't ordered your roofing yet you need to do so now. You will need 4 pieces of two foot metal roofing for the front, 48" long, 4 pieces 42" long for the back, and two 10 foot long trim pieces for the edges. And 200 screws, your choice of color. Also you are going to need a 25 foot roll of 1/2 by 1/2 galvanized wire screen for your Aviary front, vents, and roof vent so if you haven't got that yet go ahead and get it now also. OK, let's do it!
Take an 8 foot 2X4 and rip the corner off at a 45 like you did before. Install this 2x4 at the front peak of the roof, like this.

Now take another 2X4 and install it 4" down from the one you just installed, this will leave your 4" gape for the roof vent. Like this.

Now, while you have a nice big opening cover your just created vent with the 1/2 by 1/2 screen. Cut 4 pieces 6" wide off the end of your roll, so you have 4 pieces 6X24 inches. Staple these pieces on top of the 2X4s to cover your vent. Now take a 8 foot 1X4 and install it along the back wall at the roof line. Screw the OSB sides into the 1X4 like you did with the 2X4s but also screw the back wall of the loft to the 1X4 using 2" sheet rock screws from outside going through your outside 1X4 trim board, through the OSB, into the 1X4 being installed, like this.

Now measure the distance between the 1X4 you just installed and the 2X4, divide this in half, and mark each end of the loft. Install another 2X4 here.

OK, lets put some roofing on. I am not going to go into how to install metal roofing. If you haven't done this before ask at the lumber store where you bought it. Take your 4 pieces 42" long, start at one end, and install them fron the top of the vent 2X4, like this.

Well, the back of your roof is now done. We will add the trim later.
Step Eight
Before we can install the front roofing we need to build most of the Aviary. So that is what this step is. Remember that corner you cut off the 2X4s at a 45 that I said to discard, un-discard it. Sorry. Take the two aviary sides you cut back in step two and lay them on the ground with the long sides facing each other. Then add a 1X4 to the bottom of each side using your short sheet rock screws from the OSB into the 1X4. Like this.

Now take your un-discarded 45 and install a piece of it to each aviary side, once again screwing from the OSB into the 45 degree 2X2. be careful to ensure no screw tips protrude from the 45s as this could harm your birds. This goes on the same side as the 1X4s did.



Attaching the aviary sides is easiest with a helper but can be done by one person. Take some 2" sheet rock screws and on 6" spacing start them into the 45 degree 2x2s, so when you attach the aviary side the 2" screws will screw into the square 2X2 inside the loft corner. Take the left aviary side in your left hand and your screw gun in your right hand, hold the aviary side in place making sure the top tip aligns with the roof pitch and screw it in place. Reverse hands and install the right side. It should now look like this.




Measure from the bottom of the Aviary top corner up the side 4 feet and install a 2X4 there. Like this. Then rip a 1X4 and add a 1X2 piece to the bottom half of the 2X4 you just installed. This becomes the stop for the hinged aviary front.

Using 1X4 cut and install a trim piece to each side of the aviary and then down the side of the loft. The vertical side piece needs to run parallel with the edge of the loft end OSB. Like this

Now add two pieces of 1X4 trim to the front corners of the loft, the same way you did the back corners. Only go from the aviary bottom down, like this.

Now lets finish off the roof. Using the four 48" pieces of metal roofing install them on the front of the loft from the aviary 2X4 up.

Now cut and install the two back pieces of metal roofing trim, and then the two front pieces. Then sit back and admire your work.

Step Nine
Now lets finish off the aviary. First install a 1X4 along the loft front from the 1X4s you installed on the aviary sides, once again by screwing through the OSB from the inside into the 1X4. Cut out the vertical trim all ready installed. After you have done this cut a hole in the wall for your trap. The size is up to you. I make mine 19 by 12 inches because that is the size of my electronic sensors for my clock. see below.

Now add a second 1X4 to the front of the aviary floor. Measure the distance between the front 1X4 you just installed and the back 1X4 installed on the wall and cut three pieces of 1X4 this length. Install them front to back between the two long 1X4s on two foot centers. Like this.

Now all you need to do here is add your wire to the 1X4s. I like using 1X1 inch welded wire. At a lot of hardware stores or farm stores you can buy it in 3 foot wide rolls or by the foot. Be sure and trianglelate from opposite corners to square up your framing before stapling on the wire. OK, now lets build the aviary front.
Start by ripping 3 or 4 1X4s in half. Take a 1X4 and lay it on the aviary floor, it will need to be cut. You need space for it to open and close. You will need to cut about 1/2 to 3/4 off all the long pieces for the aviary front. When this front is finished you want about 3/8 inch gap on each side. After cutting your long pieces lay out one 1X4 and one 1X2 crossways on a flat surface with five 1X2s running up and down like the drawing below. Outside width about 95 and 1/4 inches, outside height 48 inches. Measure corner to corner to square it up. Then from your 24" wide roll of 1/2 by1/2 screen cut four pieces 46" long. Staple each piece in position on the aviary front. Be careful as these pieces are not held together by anything yet. If you have a wooden deck or an extra piece of OSB this frame can be temporary screwed to it to hold it in place as your stapling on the screen.

Once you have all four pieces of screen stapled onto your aviary frame attach a second layer of the 1X2s and 1X4s on top of the first layer. Screw this second layer to the first with your short sheet rock screws every 6 inches. Be sure and remove your temporary hold down screws as you go. And make the joints of the second layer opposite the joints of the first layer, like this. Also when you screw the two 1X4 pieces together put all the screws along the inside edge of the 1X4 as we will be cutting this end at a 45 and you don't want any screws in the blade path.



Once this done flip your aviary front over and screw it together from the other side, 6" spacing again. And you thought 5lbs of screws were to much. Have you bought your second box yet? When that is done make a 45 degree saw cut from the bottom corner of the 1X4 side the full length of the aviary front. Watch out for screws. Cut it like this.

Now attach 4 hinges to the bottom of the aviary front, set the aviary front in place and finish attaching the hinges. Put a metal gate handle on the center 1X2 and your ready to go.

The aviary front should rest on the ground at about a 45 degree angle when open. If yours does not hit the ground you can set a couple of blocks under the corners to support the front when open.
Finishing Touches
Most of you will want to paint your new loft now, before you start adding perches or nest boxes. The OSB will not stand up to a lot of bad weather. I hate painting, so what I do is put on my coveralls, put a paper bag on my head with two eye holes, wear a respirator, fire up my airless sprayer, and anything that doesn't move gets it! It usually takes two coats. You can use paint or just a good water proofing like "Thompson's".
Also you still need to add a door handle. I use a screen door handle. You can get them from the hardware store for about $6 or $9 for one with a lock set.
And you need to add a door for your trap. make the door some what bigger than the hole. There are all sorts of ways to latch the door up or slightly open. This is how I do it.



Instructions for a Simple Outdoor Four Compartment Breeding Cage Unit



This project is the making of a four unit, cage suitable for the outdoors. Each unit measures about 2'wide x 18"deep x 18-24"tall and is suitible for a single breeding pair of Diamond doves or Ringnecks.
All that is needed is two sheets of plywood, a section of wire and a few other simple materials for this project.
(A complete materials list is at the end of this page , along with a tools list.)





Start with two sheets of 1/2" plywood measuring 4' x 8'


The first sheet is cut down the center into two sections measuring 2' wide x 8' long. One long section will be used for the roof, the other is to be divided. The two end pieces and three partitions are to be marked off. Each piece is 18" wide and 24" tall on one side and 16" tall along the other side, creating an angle for the slant roof. The four doors measuring 6" x 6" can be cut from the remainder.



The second sheet is also divided along the center creating
One section measuring 2' x 8' for the back wall. The other half is to be marked and cut as a 19" x 8' section for the bottom. The remaining strip can be divided into two equal width stripsmeasuring about 3" wide each.



I use galvanized welded wire for my outdoor flights and cages. For Diamonds and other small birds I prefer 1/2" square wire. For this project a single piece measuring 20" wide x 8'2" long is needed. I cut notches out of the two upper corners to allow me to bend an upper flange about 2" wide along the top line and side flanges about 1" wide along each side. Measuring for the center of each of the four units, I cut an opening 6" wide and about 9" tall for the doorways.

I find it easier to measure and mark the bottom, back and roof sections first. I mark them for each of the three center partitions at 4' for the center and 2' from each end for the others. The two side panels are to fit just inside the bottom, back and roof. I also predrill along these lines for screws.
Setting the back upright on a flat surface, I glue and hold the five sections against the back while putting at least two screws into each section and side from the back. I then tilt the unit onto its back and glue the surfaces. Putting the bottom in place, be sure the it is flush overlapping the edge of the back and there is a 1/2" sticking out the front. Line each of the five sections in place and put in at least two screws from the bottom. Also place a few screws through the bottom into the edge of the back panel.
Tilt the section so it is sitting on its bottom and facing you.
I then place the wire section onto the front of the unit. The two side flanges will need to be bent to fit just inside the two end walls. Starting in the center, I staple the wire to the center partition. Pulling towards the sides, I then staple along the next two partitions. Adjust your bends on the side flanges if needed and staple the flanges along the insides of the end partitions.
Taking the two long thin strips, I mark and predrill them for the ends and each of the three partitions. Place one of the strips onto the overlap of the bottom sticking out the front of the unit and screw it into place overtop of the wire.
Measure up from the top edge of this lower strip, just over 6" and mark. This will be the lower edge of the other thin strip allowing enough room for the doors to swing down into place. Screw it into place over the wire as before. The wire section can now be stapled to these strips from inside the units. I also prefer to cut sections of plastic wire edging to cover the wire along both sides of each door opening. This protects both birds and hands.
The hinge or hinges can now be screwed to each door as well as any locking hardware. Place each door over the openings and be sure they will swing freely. I hinge mine at the top so they swing downward. Screw the doors and any locking hardware into place.
I now cut small sections out of the upper flange of wire where the flange meets each of the three partitions. This allows the roof to contact all of the surface of the partitions. I bend each flange so it is sticking up beyond where the roof will be so that the roof will push down onto the flange with pressure. Another option is to bend the flange outward and staple it along the underside of the roof overhang.
I now cut my 1" x 1" perches to fit each unit. I predrill them at angles, then glue and screw them into place. I am sure the height allows for enough head room while mating for the birds to be kept in the units. I use flat perches for my outdoor units as birds may be in them during winter and flat perches will decrease injuries from freezing toes.
I also now screw the metal kitchen strainers, that I use for nests, into place. You may want to provide a shelf or a removable nest system.
If the insides are to be painted, which I recommend, do that now.
If hanging the unit along a wall or fence, it is easier to do this before the roof is on so you can screw from the inside of the units.
Once the interior is as you wish, mark and predrill the roof of the unit. There are options here as well. If the unit is going along a wall or fence, you will want the roof flush with the back. If you are placing legs on the unit or it is free standing, you can overlap the roof front and back. The sides will be flush. Glue and screw the roof into place. The roof can be covered with shingles or any other roofing material you may have around.
Paint the entire outside with a good exterior paint.
The finished unit is rather heavy. You will need help to hang or put into its final place.

Tools List
At least an 8' flat surface, Circular Saw, Extension Cord, Electric Drill with Bits and Screw Bits, Tape Measure, Pencils, Wire Nippers, Straight Edge or T-Square and Level.
Materials List
Two sheets of 1/2" exterior grade plywood, 4' x 8'.
Section of galvanized welded wire, 1/2" square, measuring at least 8-1/2' x 2'.
One section of 1" x 1" at least 8' long.
One box of galvanized or coated wood screws 1-1/2" long.
Four large hinges or eight smaller ones with mounting screws.
Four locking mechanisms with mounting screws.
Wood Glue
Plastic Wire Edging, at least 4'.
Four metal kitchen strainers the proper size for nests (or other nesting options).
Exterior Grade Paint
Roofing Materials


PIGEON TALK LOFT TIPS:

IMO, the ONLY type of wire that should be used is the 1/4" X 1/4" hardware cloth. Anything bigger and critters can get in. Slightly larger can be used for the bottom of the aviary, or the poop won't fall through.

Nest Boxes: Should be large enough to raise two rounds of squeaker. Ideal size is 32" long, 16" high. Obviously, if there's room to make them bigger, that's even better, but I wouldn't go any smaller.

Perches: There should be two perches per bird. Never have the same number of perches as birds.

Floors: That really depends on where you live and your climate. Some people can get away with the wire floors, but I don't recommend it in colder climates. I actually don't recommend them at all, but that's just a personal opinion, so I guess you should leave that out.
Here is the formula for figuring out how many birds you can put in a loft.

Width X Depth X Height / 15 = Number of birds.
Example for 8 X 10 loft.
8' high X 10' deep X 6' tall / 15 = 32 birds
Some people use this formula.
8 X 10 / 2 = 40 birds.

The harware cloth has to be a thick gage too, as well as 1/4 inch.
TREES GRAY weighs in on the wire:
”Different areas have different kinds of predators, 1/2 inch is too large for down here in Florida.”

BREEDING

BREEDING

The breeding of top quality racing pigeons is the key to being successful. A top fancier can make average pigeons perform better than others, but when handed good pigeons he will murder you in competition! To be successful in racing, the breeding of pigeons should always be at the back of your mind at all times through the racing season. You should also be thinking about things like possible birds to cull in your team, or why a certain pigeon is so good. All these types of thoughts will help you become a better fancier.
There is no better selector of pigeons that the basket, and EVERY fancier should tell you this. The next best selector is yourself, so don't always rely on the basket. Many fanciers have good pigeons in their loft but often don't realise the potential of a bird. This is because some flyers buy pigeons from 500 mile stock and expect them to win at 50 miles! When this doesn't happen, they continue racing them into the ground so that by the time a 500 mile race is lined up, they're too exhausted to compete well and show the fancier what they can actually do.

Assessment of Pigeons:

Assessing pigeons comes in many forms- eye, wing, tail and so on with most of these being theories so don't take them as gospel. However, certain elements of a pigeon can show through so that you look at the bird and say to yourself 'that will breed winners'! This sort of approach can only come with time and experience but I myself think I've reached the stage when I can assess a pigeon by just looking at it, simply because I know what the good pigeons look like in my particular family. If you have a good family of pigeons, within which there are many winners, then compare their qualities with the also-rans in the loft. To me, winners in my family can be spotted a mile off, but not in the eyes of any show judge, my eyes only. This is because I know what I'm looking for in a certain pigeon. Let me explain further.
Pigeons which are particularly inbred often look the same, usually say all blues but it is the smaller things which shine out on good pigeons. Here, I'm not taking about how deep the eye colour is or the wing length but a different type of quality. I tend to look for a quality which relates back to one specific pigeon, that being 'Silver Shadow' of Martyn Mitchell. This pigeon was a direct son of the Janssen's 'De Rode Zot 57' and bred so many winners it's untrue. Now, I have 2 direct daughters of this pigeon in my stock loft which don't look that alike to each other, but one hen called 'Lucille' does look like her father. Therefore I have paired her in the last two years to 2 cocks, one a Targa and the other a Janssen. Now, the youngsters from Lucille all race brilliantly but the other direct daughter called 'Kala' breeds a very specific type of pigeon when paired to the said Janssen cock alone. All her youngsters race equally as good as Lucille's so this pointed something out to me. The pigeons from Lucille are finer than her, as are the youngsters from Kala. They all have the same appearance even though from 2 different hens. This shows me that the line is carried through the hen to her sons, the only ones I raced at the time. Armed with this information, I've quickly found which hens in my family have the genes to reproduce top quality racing cocks when crossed with another line, used as a first cross.

X Chromosome Theory:

This theory is now proving to be a fact. I first read about it in Masters of Breeding & Racing and then it was just a theory. But, during 1994 I drew up many experiments to which I set about conducting in 1996 to the present day. All results to date show this so called theory is a fact. To me, any superior breeder cock who throws good racing hens and cocks out consistently in every nest HAS to have 2 brilliant X Chromosomes in his genes. Now, I also place greater value in the hens from superior breeding cocks simply because of this reason- all cocks pass 1 X Chromosome to their daughter who in turn passes it onto her sons only. This is where the theory bit comes in again. It is possibly why you often get top racing cocks in the second generation from daughters of top class pigeons. Now, the book I learnt the theory from stopped with it there but I carried on experimenting with another theory- the reproduction of top pigeons by line breeding.
This approach has been developed entirely by myself and has been tested and found to be possible in a few cases. Briefly, what we are trying to achieve is the reproduction of both the original X Chromosomes in a cock via the use of line breeding. I'll try and explain it now:
Say we have a champion pigeon such as 'Silver Shadow'. We know he has 2 excellent X Chromosomes but only 1 can be passed to his offspring. Now, we'll name these X1 & X2. In his first nest, he may pass X1 to a son and X2 to a daughter if the nest contains a cock and hen. But, he can also pass X1 to both, or pass X2 to both. We never know the result because we'd have to genetically test it out. Now, if the cock and hen do contain X1 & X2 then we are fortunate enough to be able to pair these together, in essence putting the X1 & X2 back together in 50% of the cocks they produce. I say 50% because the cocks carry 2 X Chromosomes and therefore one in the cock comes from his dam which is completely unrelated to Silver Shadow.
So, by experimenting with direct offspring we can feasibly get one nest pair, or a brother & sister who carry both X Chromosomes and these can be paired to create a cock which will carry both of the originals. In theory this sounds quite exciting but in practice it is very hard to achieve simply because you never know which chromosome it contains. We can relate this back to the Kala & Lucille example. I believe that because they look different, they are carrying different X Chromosomes from Silver Shadow. Therefore, I need to pair both back to their father and the offspring should be 50% copies of their father genetically. But, I think this is too close for breeding purposes so what I intend to do is use the offspring of these 2 hens which have been raced and pair them together at some point in the future. this also gives the other chromosomes a chance to break up differently and hopefully I won't end up with runty looking inbreds in my loft which don't perform. I must stress that the X Chromosome is the largest information carrying gene in the pigeon and that is why I place such significance upon it through my breeding evaluations. As soon as I get a good pigeon, I immediately retrace possible X Chromosome transfers through its pedigree to find the history of it. It mustn't be forgotten that the other genes may be responsible for other factors such as vitality and so on, so it makes sense to breed around one particular pigeon which is known to be a superior breeder, NOT A RACER!
If you wish to see another example, I urge you to read Steven van Breemen's website pages on selection. He has done a similar thing to what I'm trying to achieve but based his selection on different things which are also important factors. If you wish to try this method out, you have to think many years in advance and know what sort of pigeon wins for you. This system isn't possible is all your birds are crosses or from different families because you will never know what stage to start from. Basically you need to have a few offspring, preferably breeding winners which have come from a top breeder to try this out, and be prepared to see it through as a few bad pigeons may crop up. This system can also be done with aunts & nephews and uncles & nieces in your family.
Table
blue (b)
blue (b)
CHEQ (C)
Cb
bb
red (r)
br
br
The above table gives a typical representation of how some colours come about, this being the example of the famous Meulemans pairing. The sire on the left is a Chequer who carries the recessive chocolate (red) gene to his offspring. The hen is a blue barred who carries 2 blue genes. The principle is very similar to X-Chromosome theory but here we aren't dealing with mother to son, father to daughter genetics.
The table shows 4 possible offspring- a cheq who carries blue, a pure bred blue, and 2 pigeons who are blue but carry the recessive red colour (often these appear pencilled as the blue is masked over the red because neither colour is more dominant). By then pairing these last 2 pigeons together, one in four of their offspring will be chocolate (when both 'r' genes come together. Try it yourself on some of your pigeons after reading more on the subject. I find it very useful in determining the true offspring off a pigeon, e.g.- reds from chequers.

Selection:

Much has been written concerning selection of pigeons in recent years. The old chestnut eyesign always seems to come about every 5 years or so but never reveals anything new or outstanding. I pay no attention to half baked ideas like eyesign because you can go to the best racers around and see for yourself that pigeons only need 2 eyes and a brain to function. I'm not going to enter the discussion because I've no time for eyesign. What I do have time for is the selection system which I use. It is based on experience and has proved to me that it works in most cases. This is below:
Selecting Old Pigeons:
It must be bred from a top class hen who's father was a good breeder, and if possible the hen has won in big competition regularly.
It should have proved itself as a breeder, failing that performed well as a racer. I always prefer proven breeders to racers.
It must resemble the family type in some ways like head structure, wing length and colouration.
It should breathe slowly in the hand.
It should not be overweight. Many pigeons are deliberately fattened up to give the feel that it is a big pigeon when it's actually overweight.
If it's from a long distance strain, it's heart rate should be as slow as possible when timed.
The throat should not have been eaten away by canker, and be calm.
The pigeon should wriggle and shake when you pull its beak forward. Only the best ones ever do.
The pigeon should not feel like a door wedge. The best all distance birds appear slightly square in shape, tapering off very gently to the tail when in the hand.
The wing when viewed on edge should be arc shaped.
I only know how to select old birds because I never buy young birds from fanciers
I bet you think I'm literally talking all theory by now, but trust me on this. I happened to find a pigeon with ALL the above characteristics in 1998 at the Blackpool Show- the only one from the hundreds I examined. The sad thing was I never bought it. Why? Well, whilst I was performing my 10 point examination, a man was happily stood next to me, observing every action I took with the bird. I handed it to him when he requested a feel of it, and I was off to approach the vendor about negotiating a price. Whilst my back was turned, this git bought the pigeon by approaching a helper at the stall and then made a swift exit- and he knew I was intending to buy it because I told him so. If I see him again this year, I think I'll do the same to him!
It is important for pigeons to have a lot of character. My favourite birds are the ones who will go out of their way to attack you, even though you're not provoking them. Some of my best birds will leave their nest to come and have a fight with me. One such bird is pictured here, I call him BITER for obvious reasons.

Theories:

Ok, lets look at some of the theories in pigeon racing and try to dispel some of the nonsense which is currently doing the rounds. Many things are being talked about at the moment so lets take each and see if there's any substance to it.
Eyesign
I've never believed in this theory from day one but there are so called 'eyesign experts' out there who would gladly like to prove me wrong. My opinion is that an eye is only good if you can see accurately through it. It doesn't matter about the colour- that comes from the genetics side of breeding. However, I wouldn't listen to the experts because if you notice, most of them don't fly well at all. If they're so good at selecting through eyesign alone, they would have a loft full of top racers & breeders wouldn't they? The only thing I think is relevant in terms of the eye is what Steven van Breemen says when he states intelligent pigeons look like owls face on, that is to say the eyes look directly forward. This has to be a good sign, rather than having the eyes directing outward slightly. Colouration is irrelevant as there are only 2 types of colour- white and yellow. All the so called violets, pearls etc are slight variations on the white eye, depending on the pigment concentration. It doesn't mean it's a top breeder!
Wing
Many theories have been put forward concerning the wing, it's structure, size and shape over the years. There only appears to be something relevant in the wing theory in terms of the shape. Many good pigeons have defective flights, just as some have 11 flights in both wings instead of 10. Regarding the shape, I think it's important to have the arc shape when the wing is viewed on edge. This helps the bird gain height and helps it stop quicker. Another important factor is the wing shape in terms of the flight feathers. My opinion is that good long distance pigeons possess slightly longer flight feathers which are quite well spaced, especially the last 3 which power the bird. The last 3 flights should also be fairly similar in size.
Tail
This one is a classic! I remember reading that a fancier once went round to another fancier's loft and condemned most of his birds because the top tail feather wasn't dead centre. If it was slightly left or right of centre, then the bird was seen to be no good. Have you ever heard anything so stupid?
Feet
The theories get even more idiotic! This one is concerned with the placing and colouration of the pigeon's nails. If it had a white nail on one foot, it was a good breeder etc. Total nonsense! This is only down to the keratin in the nail and the melanin content.
Wingpit Feathering
This one I do believe has some relevance. The wingpit (armpit in humans) has a collection of about 5 feathers which are of different sizes. They appear either long or short but with one distinct difference- their cut. This cut is seen at the tip of the feather and it makes the whole thing look like someone has trimmed it with a pair of scissors at 90 degree angles (square appearance overall). Now, go into your loft and handle your best breeders, cocks & hens. Open their wings and look at their feathers- nearly all of the best breeders have square shaped wingpit feathers that I've seen. This could be a genetic trait but the racers often don't have this feature, their's being a more pointed structure. However, some of my best racers who do have a square cut feather are good breeders as well.
Melanin Content
Have you ever noticed some pigeons have very dark bands of black on their tail and flight tips when compared with others? This is due to the melanin content in the feather. The darker the feather, the greater the content. The relevence here is that melanin makes a feather stronger in structure, a bit like keratin makes our hair and nails strong. With pigeons therefore, a darker feather colour may mean the birds flights could withstand a longer duration of flight when compared to an average pigeon. Not many have the very dark feathering though, but I think it would be beneficial to have more melanin in feathers for Long Distance racers - this is my theory anyway, due to the extended flying times they are put under.